adminIn August 2009 I visited Ladakh.
Ladakh is a cold desert highland, beyond the Great Himalayan Range. Referred to as “Little Tibet” due to its strong influence of Tibetan culture. Ladakh is strategically located at the cross-roads of major trade routes leading onto Tibet and Central Asia. These trade routes have since been shut down after the Chinese authorities closed the borders with Tibet and Central Asia in the 1960s, plus the ongoing dispute between India and Pakistan over Kashmir has shut down the borders through Baltistan into now Pakistan.
I decided to take the road to Leh from Manali, a distance of 475 km that takes nearly 2 days to cover.
The Manali-Leh Highway is open only between June and mid-September when snow is cleared by the Indian Army. It connects the Manali valley to Kullu valley, Lahaul and Spiti and Ladakh. It crosses some of the highest mountain passes in the world, including Rohtang La (3978 m), Baralacha La (4892 m), Lachulung La (5059 m) and Taglang La (5325 m). The latter 2 passes are less problematic over former 2 due to less snowfall in Ladakh. I camped overnight at Sarchu, did small stops at Jispa, Keylong and Pang.
Climbing up to Rohtang Pass from Manali
Rohtang Pass (3978 m)
Chai point beyond the Great Himalayan range into the dry Trans Himalayan region before Kelong
Crossing Baralacha la Pass (4892 m) / Surya Tal
View from night camp at Sarchu
Nakeela Pass (4920 m)
Lachulung La Pass (5059 m)
Pang
Pang from above
Truckers checking their vehicles before treading on between isolated sections on the road to Leh
Trans Himalayan expanse, desolate and barren till the eye can see / More Plains
Trucks climbing up the barren mountain
Taglang La (5325 m)
Landscape
Upshi
The first day in Leh was difficult as I was experiencing minor AMS, so I took it easy and explored the town and main bazaar. Till about seventy years ago the market in Leh was the busiest market between Kashmir and Yarkhand. Trans-Himalayan nomadic herdsmen bringing in yak loads of pashmina wool and raw silk from over the Karakoram, bartering with the traders from the plains. Now the main street has transformed into rows of curio shops and emporiums stocked with trinkets, prayer-wheels, bowls and carpets churned out by the Tibetan refugees and Kashmiris.
Later in the evening, I climbed onto the Leh Palace. Built in the 17th century, the nine storied palace is modelled on the Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet. The palace has been deserted since the royal family shifted to Stok Palace in 1830. Later I attended a traditional Ladakhi dance performance in the courtyards of the palace.
Leh Palace
Monk / Lama at the palace
Traditional dance performance at the palace
View of the city from the palace
Leh bazaar
The following day, I went to the Khardung La pass at 5359 m, taking one of the highest motorable road in the world. Khardung La has the notoriety of getting snow piles of more than ten feet in a matter of few hours, which luckily I did not have a chance to experience. After a cup of tea at probably one of the highest cafe in the world I returned back to Leh.
Drive to Khardungla from Leh
Khardungla Pass (5359 m)
View from Khardungla top
I spent the afternoon walking through the town and buying some souvenirs. Then bumped into Ori, an Israeli guy I met on the drive from Manali and spent the rest of the evening with him.
The next day, I woke up at 6 am to attend the morning prayers at the Thiksey Monastery with over a hundred lamas praying together. Thiksey is located about 20 km on the Manali-Leh highway. Situated on top of a hill at 3600 m, the monastery houses a 15 m tall statue of Buddha – the Buddha of the Future (Maitreya). Thiksey no doubt is one of the finest examples of Ladakhi architecture.
Thiksey Monastery
View from the monastery
Young monks
Next I visited the Hemis Monastery, this gompa sits at the foot of a ravine hidden from view until you are right there. Constructed in 1630, Hemis is the biggest and one of the most important Buddhist Monastery in the region of Leh.
Road leading to Hemis
Museum
Monastery quarters around the monastery
Expanse and view from Hemis monastery, famous for its snow leopard population
On the way back, I stopped at a ruined palace.
Views from the ruins
Lone monastery on the Indus river
Later in the evening I went to visit the Shanti Stupa at dusk.
Ori and myself, last night in Leh
Finally the next day, I took the flight back to Delhi over the majestic Himalayas, I must say a flight to remember with a 360 panoramic view of some very prominent Himalayan peaks like the K2, the second highest and the most dangerous mountain to climb in the world.
On my next trips to Ladakh, I plan to take the road from Srinagar, passing through Kargil and spend a few days in Zanskar. Visit the Likir and Lamayuru monasteries and possibly spend a few days in the Nubra Valley.
From Leh, the plan is to proceed onwards to either the Pangong Tso or the Tso Moriri Lake.
Map of Ladakh
